2017. március 28., kedd

Jejudo / 전설과 기적의 섬, 제주도

As I went on a trip (lets call road trip) to Jeju island in February, I think I should share my experience and ideas about it to my foreign friends. So I decided to do a challenge, writing an English and Korean bilinguish version for all of you who are interested. 
First of all, I am so sorry for all of the mistakes and misspellings, I will try to do my best... XD

Okey, lets begin... 
In december I got a bit worried that I will be bored during winter vacation, that I won't go home and I have no plans... so I was talking to my hungarian KGSP friend Luca and finally we decided to prepare that trip. One week: at first it seemed so long but as soon as we arrived there we realized that actually it is almost insufficient. 
(KOR)
그럼 시작해볼게요.
방학 시작하기 전인 1월에 나는 방학 계획이 없어서 고민이 많았다외국인 친구들과 달리 고향으로 가게 됐고 기숙사에 계속 있으면 분명히 심심하겠지 라고 생각했는데 마침네 헝가리에서 KGSP친구랑 연락해서 같이 제주도 가기로 마음을 먹었다제주도에서 거의 1주일 보내기로 했는데 처음에 나는 시간이 오래 것처럼 느겨졌지만 나중에는 1주일 조차 부족했다.

We went there by plane, Luca from Seoul and me from Busan... theoritically we should have arrived at the same time, but my flight was delayed due to.. dunno, in my op due to Busan Air's not-too-organized schedule. We were supposed to do the boarding 10 min before departure, kinda impossible... In addition in the last moment we were moved to another gate where there was already another boarding at Korean Air, who had priority, of course. Laisse tomber, Busan Air was still good and comfortable, so I can recommend it. 
(KOR)
'Last minute' 말처럼 비행기가 출발하기 1 주일 전에 비행기표를 샀고, 호텔 예약도 하루 전에  밖에 없었다서울에서 사는 루카라는 친구가 서울에서 출발했고, 나는 물론 부산에서 비행기를 타고 갔다원래는 같은 시간에 도착하는 거였는제 부산한공은 어떤 이유로 인해 30 정도 지연이 되었다. 어쨌든 부산한공으로도 안전하고 편하게 목적지에  도착했다. 

If you go to Jeju, you'd better rent a car. And yes, it is the best way to explore the island! My friend got her driving licence accepted in Korea, so we rent a car for the whole week and went everywhere we wanted, in our comfortable rhytm. There are quite many bus lines but I don't know if the schedule is reliable, and based on the changing weather on the island, well, it can be risky. 
We reserved accomodation in different hotels, in every corner of the island. First night (and last night too) we stayed at Jeon Won hotel in Jeju City, that was close to the airport and cheap, normal, I didn't have any problems. 
In the evening we went out to make the first impressions about the city and the seaside, we ate tha black pig meat and found a nice beach, with the lights at night it was awesome!
(KOR)
제주도에 가면 차를 빌리는 것이 좋겠죠?...
저도 동감입니다!  친구는 이제 한국에 쓰이는 운전면허증이 있으니까 우리는 차를 타고 여러 곳을 편안하게 마음데로 구경했다그래서 섬을 돌아다니다가는 밤을  다양한 곳에서 보내 되었다. 진짜 'road trip' 같은 경험을 만들어 보게 됐다!
밤에는  제주시에 있는 호텔에  '체킹' 하고 나서   먹으러 나갔더니 흑돼지고기가  제주도의 특징이라는 알게 되자마자 흑돼지고기를 맛있게 먹었다 . 후에는 그냥 근처에 있는 해변을 구경하고... 이러한 아름다운  현상을 봤다.





Our official first day was the 16th February, we decided to go up to Hallasan, which is a 1950m volcanic peak. According to news and researches the volcan was active 5000 years ago and there are notes from 500 years ago too, so it is classified as active volcan. Anytime anything can happen....:) :)
(KOR)

2 16, 공식적인 날에는 먼저  한라산으로 올라가기로 했는데 날씨가 좋았고 올라가면서 풍경이 너무너무 예뻤다. 덮인 산도 많았지만 빛이 나는 같았다...  처음에만... 

So we went up... and from around 1000m we realized that it is seriously winter - it was cold and snowy, quite much, like 20-30 (somewhere even 40) cm. And despite the clear morning, later the fog came like a ghost and hide the peak... and the road before our eyes.
(KOR)
1000미터부터는 진짜 겨울이 우리를 환영했다. 순식간에 해가 구름 뒤로 도망가 안개가 내렸고 공포영화 같은 느낌을 들었다. 게다가 눈이 가량 20-30 센티 쌓였다.  1100m 고지에서 조금도 올라갔지만 계속 쌓이고 쌓인 눈이 얼음이 되어 엄청 위험한 상황이 벌어졌다.  


We went up by our car (that we named "urinampjon", cuz he was our brave mate who was always beside us)  and somehow survived, but we gave up on hiking as it was sooooo dangerous. Even koreans had particular equipment for that.
Next stop was in a nice parking spot where we could see the beautiful landscape of the southern side
(KOR):
1100m 고지에서 조금도 올라갔지만 계속 쌓이고 쌓인 눈이 얼음이 되어 엄청 위험한 상황이 벌어졌다. 그래도 "우리 남편"이라는 렌트한 차가 우리를 안전하게 운반해서 얼마나 다행이었는지 몰라! (그리고 루카는 이런 상황에서도 제대로 운전해주었다. 언니, 우리를 살려줬어!^^)
위험하니까 결국 내려가기로 했지만 내려가는 길에  어떤 주차장에서 보이는  아름다운 풍경을 찾아가서 멈췄다.


(Over there the sea was sprakling from the sunshine... it was fabolous! 저쪽에서 햇빛이 바다에 비췄다. )

As we went down the weather turned out to be very warm and sunny, from cold january we arrived to april or may... We visited Jusangjeolli and a bit of the area over there, the park of the seaside.

내려가면서 추운 겨울  날씨가 봄의 따뜻한 날씨로 바뀌었다.  많은 예쁜 사진을 찍었고 바로 주상절리와 주변을 보러 갔다





For this and the next night we stayed at Seogwipo, the second city of the island. It is rather a small city (~100 000 habitants), nicer and calmer, I liked the ambiance. It has a traditional market where we tasted tangerine  juice and bought different tangerines. 
(KOR)
그날 밤과 다음 저녁을 서귀포시에 있는 작은 호텔에서 보냈다. 사실 생각에는 제주시보다 서귀포가 착하고 분위기가 좋은 도시인 같다.
전통시장에도 갔다왔고 맛있고 다양한 귤을 사서 먹었다.

On the next day we visited overall four places, all of them were further, my friend was driving a lot, and I was the voice of the navigator, because Korea is kind of hard to drive, even in Jejudo. We visited Cheonjiyeon waterfall which was in a nice park, then Sesom island cuz it was nearby, then a green tea field and Hyuaeri, a nice folkloric park with Jeju's typical animals and apricot flowers.
(KOR)

다음 날에는 서귀포 근처에 다양한 곳을 보러 갔다.  여러 곳을 다녀야 하니까 길이 많이 길어졌지만 루카는 운전할  집중 잘하고 나는 GPS 통해 길을 설명하도록 노력해봤다 (대부분 길을 잃어버리지 않았다 ㅋㅋ). 먼저, 가장 가까운 천지연폭포와 옆에 있는 세섬에 산책했다. 다음은 설록다원 녹차원을 다녔고 마지막으로 휴애리라는 공원에서 매화꽃과 다른 제주의 대표적인 동물을 봤다.








On the third day we decided to go further, to the western part of Jeju, It was rather the countryside, small villages but still lots of hotels. The plain was colorful from the blooming canola parcels, but the wind was the strongest I'd ever experienced, wild and cold.
(KOR)
날에는 서귀포를 떠나서 바로 서쪽으로 갔다. 날씨가 맑았지만 바람이 진짜 많이 불으며 공기가 너무  너무 추웠다. 서쪽에는 도시 말고 유재꽃밭과 작은 마을들의 풍경을 통해서  제주도의 다른 면을 알게 되었다.

There were still many sights to see: it is kind of compulsory to take photos with the canola flowers, then there is the beach of Yongmeori with the huge stones, can't miss it! Last but not least we went to a thermal bath, "Sanbangsanoncheon". 
(KOR)
저쪽에도 가볼 만한 곳이 많았다: 우리는 산방산과 용머리 해변을 가보고 나서 그 날을 우리 쉬는 날이라고 불러서 산방산탄산온천에서 일몰까지 쉬었다.




After this rather relaxing day, we went through the length of the island, exactly to the eastern corner. We stopped at three places, first at Jongbang waterfall, which is effectively two waterfalls, a big one and a smaller one, a bit further, . Both are amazing especially the big, which is falling directly into the sea. 

'쉬는 ' 다음 날엔 섬을 너머가 동쪽 끝에서 밤을 보냈다. 물론 동쪽으로 가다가 곳에서 멈췄고 구경했다. 예를 들면 종방폭포와 소종방폭포, 쇠소깍, 그리고 제주도의 민속마을, 대장금 드라마 촤영지로도 유명한 성읍마을.
                                                       
 Second stop was "Soisoggak" a kind of small bay, where you can go boating (not in winter, of course:) ) But because that day it was rather spring weather, the black sand beach was so warm that we preferred to walk in the sea barefoot.


 Next step before that day's destination was Songeup folk village, which introduced how Jeju people used to live there. Also, there were some filming spot of Dae Jang Geum drama, one of the initial dramas of k-wave.

 And finally we went to the east. But despite our hopes, the weather turned out to be extremely windy and rainy, so we ended up staying inside and not to discover the rough east coat. We just ordered pizza and watched a movie and enjoyed the traditional "ondol" heating system.^^ The next morning was as cloudy as the day before, or even worse... And the owner of the guesthouse told us that there is no ferry to Udo (which was our plan for that day's morning) furthermore even the airport of Jeju is closed due to the weather.

이제야 동쪽에 도착했다. 동쪽으로 가는 길에는 버려진 사람도 없는 풍경을 접하면서 나도 조금씩 외로운 느낌을 받았다. 게다가 바람이 강해졌고 비가 내리기 시작했다. 드디어 힘이 빠진 마음으로 평범한 전통적인 스타일 숙소에 도착했다. 그런데 방에서 온돌 시스템 덕분에 편안하게 앉아서 배달도 시키고 재미있는 영화도 봤다.

다음 날에 일출을 보고 나서 우도에 다녀올 예정이었는데 날씨가 전날 보다 나빠 보였다. 집주인 아저씨한테 물어보니 이러한 날씨에는 다니지도 하는 데다가 제주시 공항도 닫혀 있다고 대답하시기에 우리 계획은 취소되었다.
(그날 아침의 전망)

So we launched our plan B, and went to Manjanggul, a lave cave, and the headed back to Jeju City for the last night.
The cave was awesome, I can't describe it well... the lave stones were the most alive proof of the birth of the island, and a bit of the whole Earth. It was huge, and for good reason, part of UNESCO world heritage. Honestly, that cave was one of the best memories!
그래도 우리한테  희망이 남아 있었다: '플랜 B' 있었기 때문이다! 그래서 우도 말고 세게유산의 만장굴이라는 곳을 구경했다



After that we decided to go back to Jeju city, anyway we had to give back Urinampjon to the rent-a-car. We went to cinema and watched "My little brother", a very cute and funny family movie in korean, and int he evening we ate chicken&beer and went to norebang. I was sad to go back on the next day, because during this week I felt a little bit like at home... we were speaking in hungarian, having a car, we had so comfortable life like at home... also the roads were nice, in the nature, which sometimes ressemled to my country.
Getting back to normal Busan-life was hard and I needed a few days to recover myself... :D
But totally worthed it, that week was my best vacation ever!

만장굴을 구경하고 나서 바로 제주시에 돌아갔다. 길을 가다가 아름다운 해안을 봤고 사진 개를 찍었다. 제주시에 오후에 나쁜 날씨가 이어지는 바람에 영화관에서 '그래 가족'이라는 영화를 보고 말았다. 어차피 한국어를 연습하기 위한 좋은 선택인데다가 남주인공이 경상도 사투리만 사용하는 아이라서 특히 나의 부산 생활을 잘할 있도록 도움이 있다고 생각했다.
다음 날에 마지막으로 날씨가 맑아졌다! 제주시에게 굿바이를 하고 나서 친구는 서울을 향해, 나는 부산을 향해  출발했다.
마음은 슬프지만 이렇게 다양하고 특별한 경험을 통해 방학을 소중하게 보냈다고 생각한다.

그리고 당연히 이번에는 곳들을  찾아보러 다시 돌아가야지... :) :)

And finally, some reasons why it worths to go to Jeju in winter / in off-season:

- prices are much cheaper! (car, hotel) Ok, the food is still the same and it is as expensive in Seoul...(or sg like that.)
- the weather is mainly sunny, and warmer then in the Korean Peninsula. The humidity is low, unlike in summer
- you can experience everything without crowd, there are rather only korean tourists and local people
- it is tangerine's season, blooming of camelia flowers or later, apricot's flowers, so there will be spring-feeling anyway! And the sea is not icy at all! Try it! ;)

Pictures here: https://goo.gl/photos/WHwNJGSN7yQokus87